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Would only sealing the top and bottom of the planks (and not the tongue and grooves) only this increase the chances of cupping due to the only moisture absorption avenue being though the tongue and grooves?
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Help. I had my second floor bedroom done in pretreated hickory a couple of years ago. No signs of cracking or cupping or separation. At night, mainly during the spring or fall the floors pop real loud over the entire room. Sounds like gunshots and woke us both up in a moment of terror. Thought the floor was ripping itself up. When I turn on the lights there is no evidence of changes or plank movement. It can be real scared and there has to be something wrong. Any ideas or suggestions for help would be greatly appreciated.
Also, the floors in the two guest bedrooms were installed incorrectly. There are nail holes and planks installed groove to groove, as opposed to tongue-and-groove. The empty nail holes can also be seen on the first and third floors.
I have oak hardwood and there is an area in my living room that just a week ago is producing bubbling through the cracks. I feels like oil of some kind. It is in about a 3 foot by 3 foot section of the living room that is not near any water source. I have been here are 2 years and this is the first time its happened. But as I continued to clean the area and inspect it sometimes it is a puddle of what again appears to be an oil substance. This morning there were nickel size bubbles in the cracks of the same area.
We have red oak hardwood floors that were professionally sanded and re- finished about two years ago. The floor have been showing small cracking on the surface. We have only used the recommended cleaner the professional recommended. The surface cracking seems to be limited to the finish and the wood still looks good. Any thoughts on removing the cracking finish short of sanding and reapplying the stain and sealer? Can it be buffed out and resealed? Thanks for your help.
My floors are cracking and spitting all over my house . I had laid down pile and stick flooring throw out my home and now after time l have noticed large cracks all over the place hall ways bed room and in the kitchen . What would be causing such a problem throw out my home . I am not sure how to add pictures but if you need them l can send to you so that you can see to for your self what l am talking about.
What the are implications of installing wood flooring on a sub floor that is not perfectly flat? Will this cause buckling, crowning, cracking of boards or any other visual issues (other than the final floor product possibly not looking flat) with the hardwood floor itself?
My new hardwood floors were installed about 2months apart (awaiting wood availability-carribean pine). They were left unfinished. Installer supposedly sanded first area and only slightly sanded second area. There are grout marks where bathroom was remodeled and shoe scuffs and now cracks developing between the boards and worst of all I have squeaky floors and flooring is butting against wall in many areas. Installer is arrogant and very difficult to talk to and becomes defensive and storms out of my house and raises his voice at me. He has been paid for all but about 6%. He refuses to use any other stain but Minwax.
Hi, My floorboards are developing cracks/holes in the middle of the boards themselves; which seem to follow the pattern of the wood. Some say it is a natural process( the house is about 5 years old), but I was wondering if more polish, olive oil or other method could slow this process down? Regards, Zac
Adding water to the concrete makes it flow down the chute and fill your forms more easily, but it also weakens the final slab. A drier mix is more difficult to pack into your form, especially around the edges, but makes for a stronger, more crack-resistant slab.
Round the edges of the slab with an edging tool after any surface water disappears. Work the edger until the edge is solid and smooth. The concrete should be firm before you start edging. If the edger is leaving behind large wet grooves, wait awhile before you continue. Longer strokes will result in straighter lines.
Grooving creates a weakened spot in the concrete that allows the inevitable shrinkage cracking to take place at the groove rather than at some random spot. Cut in control joints to create individual sections no larger than 8 x 8 ft. for a 3-1/2-in.-thick slab, and no larger than 10 x 10 ft. for a 5-1/2-in.-thick slab.
Even if you cure your concrete slowly as described above, a large slab, such as a patio or sidewalk, may still crack as a result of concrete shrinkage that occurs as temperatures change and water is used up in the hydration process. Because of the natural movement of the soil beneath, concrete slabs will eventually crack. That's why control joints are crucial. These intentional weak spots are cut into the slab down to about a quarter of its depth in order to anticipate and direct any future cracks. Odds are that any cracks will happen in these weakest parts.
The way you excavate the ground also impacts the likelihood that cracks will develop over time. A good rule of thumb is to dig out no more soil than necessary to accommodate the desired depth of the concrete and a few inches of gravel. For example, if you want a four-inch-thick slab, dig down seven inches and then fill the forms with three inches of sand before pouring. Don't dig down too far and then refill with a few inches of soil; the soil you put back will eventually settle and cause the slab to crack.
While concrete is strong on its own, you can make it even stronger with a little steel reinforcement. For patios and walkways, this might mean adding rebar in a grid pattern with the bars set about two feet apart and sitting halfway through the slab. For smaller projects, such as concrete vases and other decorative items, you can add wire mesh during the pour to improve strength and reduce cracking.
Even if a crack does crop up down the road, all is not lost. You can quickly, easily, and confidently repair cracks in concrete surfaces. Quikrete, a company with nearly 80 years of experience, offers a range of solutions for all kinds of cracks including its new line of Advanced Polymer Sealants, which includes Self-Leveling Sealant for use on cracks in horizontal concrete surfaces and Non-Sag Sealant for fixing cracks in vertical concrete surfaces without sagging or drooping.
Although damage is extremely unlikely, it is a good idea to let dentists know about any restorations such as bonding or veneers so they can monitor their condition during straightening. That way, they can fix any cracks or breaks right away if they do occur. 2ff7e9595c
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